OutdoorGearLab

Want to touch the scintillating pockets of Spain or the world-famous tufas of Greece for yourself? Then you are going to need an 80m rope. While it's common for sport climbing anchors in the US to be placed at 30m or occasionally 35m off the ground, in Europe, it is the standard to stretch the anchors to 40m or even further when the rock allows &mdash; which it often does. The number of classic climbs that would be immediately ruled out by simply lugging your old beater 70m rope with you almost makes the trip not worth it, so invest in the right tool: the Edelrid Swift Eco Dry. This 8.9mm cord is the lightest in the review at only 52 g/m, ensuring that you aren't pulling up any extra weight as you try to clip those chains &#40;and also helps with staying under your baggage weight limit&#41;. Even more impressive than its weight, however, is its durability. While Edelrid says it's not suitable for projecting routes or top-roping, we've used it on two different European sport trips, to both Greece and Spain, and both hung and whipped more times than we can count. This rope remains in great shape while we have watched our friend's cords wither and die, not worth the hassle of bringing them home. To top it off, it's dry treated without harmful a PFC coating and is both Bluesign certified and made of recycled fibers off the ends of other almost finished spools, making one of the more environmentally friendly ropes you can buy.
While we've put around 200 pitches into this rope in six weeks and are very impressed with how it still looks and feels, we can't argue with the fact that this sort of abuse will wear the rope out sooner than a thicker 9.5mm cord. It's wiser to use it mostly for those onsight attempts or projects that only take a couple of tries instead of expecting it to carry the load of multi-hour project burns day after day, month after month. We feel that opting for such a thin cord makes sense when considering the pros and cons, but one significant consideration to keep in mind is the type of belay device being used. New Petzl GriGris are rated down to ropes as thin as 8.5mm, but many other assisted braking devices cut off right around 8.9mm or even 9.0mm. That means this rope may be too skinny for some belay devices. While we think this rope is ideal for old-world limestone adventures, we have also heard it lauded by mountain guides who appreciate the versatility afforded by a lightweight cord that's rated for single, half, and twin use. 

Switchback Travel

The first thing you’ll notice about the Edelrid Swift is its diameter: at 8.9 millimeters, it’s one of the skinniest single ropes on the market. But the Swift isn’t just a single rope—it can also be used as a half or twin line (for more on this, see the buying advice below). This “triple rating” provides an amazing amount of versatility for advanced climbers using one rope in a variety of environments. Take the Swift to the crag as a lightweight redpointing line or pair it with a second for ice climbing or multi-pitch routes with a party of three. In just about every scenario, it’s an ideal fit.

The Swift, however, isn’t totally unique in its versatility. Beal’s Joker and Opera also fit the bill as triple-rated ropes, along with many other models not listed here. But we think the Swift hits the best middle ground in terms of durability, elongation, and weight. Dynamic elongation—how much the rope stretches in the event of a lead fall—is an important number to look at when it comes to skinny ropes (typically, the skinnier the rope, the greater the stretch), and the Swift’s 30 percent is significantly lower than the 8.5-millimeter Opera’s 40 percent. Furthermore, in our testing, it has proved to be noticeably more durable and easier to handle than ropes of similar diameter, in large part thanks to its top-shelf dirt- and water-repellant finish (and it doesn't hurt that Edelrid's Eco Dry is PFC-free). A skinny single rope isn’t for everyone, but for advanced climbers looking for a lightweight and versatile rig, the Swift is our current favorite.See the Edelrid Swift Eco Dry

Want to touch the scintillating pockets of Spain or the world-famous tufas of Greece for yourself? Then you are going to need an 80m rope. While it's common for sport climbing anchors in the US to be placed at 30m or occasionally 35m off the ground, in Europe, it is the standard to stretch the anchors to 40m or even further when the rock allows &mdash; which it often does. The number of classic climbs that would be immediately ruled out by simply lugging your old beater 70m rope with you almost makes the trip not worth it, so invest in the right tool: the Edelrid Swift Eco Dry. This 8.9mm cord is the lightest in the review at only 52 g/m, ensuring that you aren't pulling up any extra weight as you try to clip those chains &#40;and also helps with staying under your baggage weight limit&#41;. Even more impressive than its weight, however, is its durability. While Edelrid says it's not suitable for projecting routes or top-roping, we've used it on two different European sport trips, to both Greece and Spain, and both hung and whipped more times than we can count. This rope remains in great shape while we have watched our friend's cords wither and die, not worth the hassle of bringing them home. To top it off, it's dry treated without harmful a PFC coating and is both Bluesign certified and made of recycled fibers off the ends of other almost finished spools, making one of the more environmentally friendly ropes you can buy.
While we've put around 200 pitches into this rope in six weeks and are very impressed with how it still looks and feels, we can't argue with the fact that this sort of abuse will wear the rope out sooner than a thicker 9.5mm cord. It's wiser to use it mostly for those onsight attempts or projects that only take a couple of tries instead of expecting it to carry the load of multi-hour project burns day after day, month after month. We feel that opting for such a thin cord makes sense when considering the pros and cons, but one significant consideration to keep in mind is the type of belay device being used. New Petzl GriGris are rated down to ropes as thin as 8.5mm, but many other assisted braking devices cut off right around 8.9mm or even 9.0mm. That means this rope may be too skinny for some belay devices. While we think this rope is ideal for old-world limestone adventures, we have also heard it lauded by mountain guides who appreciate the versatility afforded by a lightweight cord that's rated for single, half, and twin use. 
Read more: Edelrid Swift Eco Dry review

expert-review

Edelrid Swift Eco Dry

Review: Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 - Black Sheep Adventure Sports

REVIEW: Edelrid Swift Eco Dry 8.9mm

yotpo

9.2mm ropes are often marketed towards "elite" climbers or purposes, with the understanding that they offer a clear advantage from their lightness but are lacking in the durability department. This leaves their longevity and value as a concern. The Petzl Volta eliminated any concern, and in our opinion, it's an ideal skinny choice for any type of climbing. While Petzl recommends it for sport climbing &#40;sold in 80m and 100m versions&#41; as well as for alpine climbing and mountaineering, we primarily tested it &#40;and loved it&#41; as a lightweight option for alpine rock climbing, glacier travel, and multi-pitch climbing. Tested head-to-head over a week of climbing on the highly abrasive &#40;but oh so fine&#41; granite of Canada's Bugaboos, the Volta outperformed the competition in almost every way, from weight to handling to water-repellency and even durability. Its 23 g/m of sheath rivals many far thicker ropes in our review, and it was noticeably more resistant to wear compared to ropes with less sheath. It stayed dry as we dragged it through sloppy snow on glacier crossings in the rain and is, as one tester put it, "the softest and most supple climbing rope I have ever used." 
There are few downsides to point out with this rope, but one is the fact that it sure seems to be fatter than the other 9.2mm ropes we've used, verified by comparing them up close. Despite this issue, however, it's very lightweight at only 55 g/m, so its thickness is not indicative of extra material being used. It's not available in a bi-pattern weave, which means that one must make sure the middle mark indicator stays well-marked, but we found the marking that came from the factory to be highly durable. The fact that it's a mere 9.2mm, which has admittedly become somewhat commonplace for sport climbing, means that there is an increased risk of belaying accidents due to less friction in belay devices, so it may be best for experienced climbers only. The Beal Joker, with its Unicore construction, is also a top choice for a thin alpine climbing rope, but we think the Volta offers better longevity, and it's thus our top choice for alpine climbing or long multi-pitch routes.
Read Review: Petzl Volta

9.2mm ropes are often marketed towards "elite" climbers or purposes, with the understanding that they offer a clear advantage from their lightness but are lacking in the durability department. This leaves their longevity and value as a concern. The Petzl Volta eliminated any concern, and in our opinion, it's an ideal skinny choice for any type of climbing. While Petzl recommends it for sport climbing &#40;sold in 80m and 100m versions&#41; as well as for alpine climbing and mountaineering, we primarily tested it &#40;and loved it&#41; as a lightweight option for alpine rock climbing, glacier travel, and multi-pitch climbing. Tested head-to-head over a week of climbing on the highly abrasive &#40;but oh so fine&#41; granite of Canada's Bugaboos, the Volta outperformed the competition in almost every way, from weight to handling to water-repellency and even durability. Its 23 g/m of sheath rivals many far thicker ropes in our review, and it was noticeably more resistant to wear compared to ropes with less sheath. It stayed dry as we dragged it through sloppy snow on glacier crossings in the rain and is, as one tester put it, "the softest and most supple climbing rope I have ever used." 
There are few downsides to point out with this rope, but one is the fact that it sure seems to be fatter than the other 9.2mm ropes we've used, verified by comparing them up close. Despite this issue, however, it's very lightweight at only 55 g/m, so its thickness is not indicative of extra material being used. It's not available in a bi-pattern weave, which means that one must make sure the middle mark indicator stays well-marked, but we found the marking that came from the factory to be highly durable. The fact that it's a mere 9.2mm, which has admittedly become somewhat commonplace for sport climbing, means that there is an increased risk of belaying accidents due to less friction in belay devices, so it may be best for experienced climbers only. The Beal Joker, with its Unicore construction, is also a top choice for a thin alpine climbing rope, but we think the Volta offers better longevity, and it's thus our top choice for alpine climbing or long multi-pitch routes.
Read more: Petzl Volta review

amazon.com

REVIEW: Petzl VOLTA 9.2mm & VOLTA GUIDE 9mm Triple Rated Ropes

Field Tested: Petzl Volta 9.2 review

bazaarvoice

Mammut's latest line of ropes features three categories &mdash; Alpine, Crag, and Gym &mdash; leaving the guesswork out of what each rope is designed for. Each one is offered in multiple diameters with different designations such as Sender, Classic, Dry, or Workhorse. Combine the series type with the diameter names, and you're left with a repetitive amalgamation that represents diameter, series, and intended use. We recently tested the 9.5 Crag Classic, the replacement for Mammut's old Infinity rope, and found it to have nearly identical performance and handling. The Classic version comes without a dry treatment, but we found it to be just as durable and abrasion-resistant as our old Infinity Dry. We even thought this rope handled a bit better overall, without the propensity to stiffen up like a cord over time that we noticed in the past. With an excellent handle, a great catch, fantastic durability — not to mention a very reasonable price — it's no wonder this model came out on top.
If we have any complaints &#40;and there are very few&#41;, it would be that this rope is relatively heavy at 59 g/m. Lugging it up a steep, long hill to the crag takes a bit of extra effort. If you don't opt for their duodess &#40;bi-pattern&#41; version, you simply get a dyed middle mark, and we noticed that it wears off fairly quickly, so it's good to keep a marking pen handy to keep the indicator fresh. With a 9.5mm diameter that often feels a bit skinnier than other brands' 9.5s, this is an excellent all-around rope that can handle any type of cragging and should last for a long time. Without a dry treatment, it's even more affordable, so it should also be a top consideration for budget-conscious buyers.

Mammut's latest line of ropes features three categories &mdash; Alpine, Crag, and Gym &mdash; leaving the guesswork out of what each rope is designed for. Each one is offered in multiple diameters with different designations such as Sender, Classic, Dry, or Workhorse. Combine the series type with the diameter names, and you're left with a repetitive amalgamation that represents diameter, series, and intended use. We recently tested the 9.5 Crag Classic, the replacement for Mammut's old Infinity rope, and found it to have nearly identical performance and handling. The Classic version comes without a dry treatment, but we found it to be just as durable and abrasion-resistant as our old Infinity Dry. We even thought this rope handled a bit better overall, without the propensity to stiffen up like a cord over time that we noticed in the past. With an excellent handle, a great catch, fantastic durability — not to mention a very reasonable price — it's no wonder this model came out on top.
If we have any complaints &#40;and there are very few&#41;, it would be that this rope is relatively heavy at 59 g/m. Lugging it up a steep, long hill to the crag takes a bit of extra effort. If you don't opt for their duodess &#40;bi-pattern&#41; version, you simply get a dyed middle mark, and we noticed that it wears off fairly quickly, so it's good to keep a marking pen handy to keep the indicator fresh. With a 9.5mm diameter that often feels a bit skinnier than other brands' 9.5s, this is an excellent all-around rope that can handle any type of cragging and should last for a long time. Without a dry treatment, it's even more affordable, so it should also be a top consideration for budget-conscious buyers.
Read more: Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic review

stamped

With climbing ropes available in so many different lengths, sheath treatments, and weave patterns, it can be difficult to tell which one is a good value. Enter the Beal Booster III, which costs significantly less than your average cragging rope &#40;Classic or Dry&#41;. The combination of price point, performance, and durability helped it stand out. The Booster has been in production for over 20 years, but if you tried this line years ago and didn't like it, it's worth taking another look. Beal has taken a "softer is better" approach with the Booster III, and it's advertised with the highest dynamic and static elongation of any line in this review, along with the lowest impact force rating. This makes it a great choice for trad or aid climbers that want to minimize the force on their gear in a fall.
Top-ropers and seconders should take note that this rope has a lot of stretch, which could cause you to fall farther anticipated, something that can range from being a little disconcerting to potentially dangerous. It feels a bit stiff when new, but the handling softens up with use. It was also one of the most durable lines in this review, and aside from a little dirt accumulation in the sheath, it looked almost new after over 70 pitches, which bumps up its value even more in our estimation. If you are on a tight budget and want a rope that will last you a while, while also providing the softest catches around, you can't go wrong with the Booster III.

With climbing ropes available in so many different lengths, sheath treatments, and weave patterns, it can be difficult to tell which one is a good value. Enter the Beal Booster III, which costs significantly less than your average cragging rope &#40;Classic or Dry&#41;. The combination of price point, performance, and durability helped it stand out. The Booster has been in production for over 20 years, but if you tried this line years ago and didn't like it, it's worth taking another look. Beal has taken a "softer is better" approach with the Booster III, and it's advertised with the highest dynamic and static elongation of any line in this review, along with the lowest impact force rating. This makes it a great choice for trad or aid climbers that want to minimize the force on their gear in a fall.
Top-ropers and seconders should take note that this rope is quite stretchy, which could cause you to fall farther than anticipated. While generally this is just a little disconcerting, it can also potentially be dangerous. The rope feels a bit stiff when new, but the handling softens up with use. It was also one of the most durable lines in this review, and aside from a little dirt accumulation in the sheath, it looked almost new after over 70 pitches, which bumps up its value even more in our estimation. If you're strapped for cash but still seeking a rope that will last you a while, while also providing the softest catches around, you can't go wrong with the Booster III.
Read more: Beal Booster III review

Climbing Rope Comparison