Name: First Alert 3120B
Brand: first alert
SKU: 629f74b3851b7f0d0a361f23
Rating: 4.0 (51 reviews)

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The BRK Model No. 3120B is a wire in, 120V AC 60Hz single and/or multiple station photoelectric and ionization dual sensor smoke alarm specifically designed for residential and institutional applications including sleeping rooms of hospitals, hotels, motels, dormitories and other multifamily dwellings as defined in standard NFPA 101. Model 3120B complies with UL217, CSFM, NFPA 72, HUD, FHA and other agencies that model their codes after the above agencies. It meets building codes where AC/DC photoelectric and ionization combination smoke alarms are required. The BRK 3120B is a state of the art hardwired with battery backup smoke alarm that features dual photoelectric and ionization smoke sensing technologies. This alarm features two latching features and two silence features. Alarm Latch: Easily identifies initiating alarm even after alarm condition has subsided. Low Battery Latch: Identifies which unit is in low battery condition by blinking the green power light. Low Battery Silence: Temporarily silence the low battery chirp for up to eight hours. Alarm Silence: Silence alarm for several minutes. Other features include an85dB horn, single button test/silence, an easy access battery drawer and dust cover. OptiPath 360 Technology: Exclusive patented technology provides 360 degrees of direct access to the smoke sensor. Two locking features are provided to prevent battery theft and/or theft of the unit. Connection to AC power is made with a Quick Connect wiring harness. Installation is quick, easy and cost effective.

Consumer Reports

CR’s take: The First Alert 3120B is a dual-sensor smoke detector, meaning it has both a photoelectric sensor for detecting smoky fires and an ionization sensor for detecting flames. Thanks to its use of both types of sensors, this First Alert receives top scores in our flaming fire and smoldering fire tests. It’s hardwired with a battery backup, which makes it a good candidate for newer or remodeled homes that have wiring for detectors, and it features a hush button to silence nuisance alarms. It can be interconnected with additional detectors so that if one goes off, they all go off and alert you to danger even if you’re in a different room or on a different floor from the fire.

TechGearLab

The National Fire Protection Association &#40;NFPA&#41; recommends having a mix of photoelectric and ionization smoke alarms in your home for the best chance of an early alert to any problem. While most smoke alarms only have a single sensor, the First Alert 3120B Hardwire Dual has both to cover all your bases. The alarm includes a pre-stripped wiring adapter and provides the option to interlink with other compatible alarms so that any alarm will trigger all of them. It also has a battery backup in case your power goes out. 
We wish this model had an integrated carbon monoxide sensor since that could further reduce the need for additional alarm units. It's also worth noting that not all hardwired smoke alarms are compatible with each other when creating an interconnected system, so you are going to want to double-check if you are just trying to replace a single alarm. Regardless, the First Alert 3120B Hardwire Dual is an excellent option for anyone looking for dual smoke sensors in a simple package. 

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consumerreports.org

techgearlab.com

  - Forget about units that include a CO detector. Better as separate units because CO and smoke detectors should ideally be placed differently.  - The Nest units have brilliant features but are $115 each (!!!) and are photoelectric only.  - If your house is not wired, then use conventional battery-powered units, $15-20

 No hint why but it took an hour with the ladder unplugging them. Then a few days ago, another false alarm (5 AM) and one is glowing red.  The batteries I removed from the units tested good (30 mV under load less than new batteries) so I will use them for flashlights.  More notes:  - We are supposed to replace smoke alarms every 10 years

I bought seven of these to replace the wire-connected units in my house. A few key advantages over the comparable Kidde PI2010:  Most important is that the LED tells you which one sounded the alarm AND which one needs a new battery. If you have ever stood in a house with wired alarms at 2 in the freeekin' morning, trying to pinpoint the damn -bip- every minute, you will know how much swearing this feature eliminates. Trust me: This feature is a must

False alarms and bad battery life. Otherwise, these are the best for interconnected, wired systems

 Strip 1/2" off the ends of the new wires. In my case, two of the wires were pre-stripped, but the orange interconnect wire needed to be stripped. It is easier to do this before you start installing the detector on the ceiling 4. Remove the old detector from the base by rotating it counter-clockwise

 It is easier to do this before you start installing the detector on the ceiling 4. Remove the old detector from the base by rotating it counter-clockwise. It will still be attached by wires to the junction box wires. 5

 It will still be attached by wires to the junction box wires. 5. Remove the 3-wire (or 2-wire) plug from the back of the old detector by prying lose with a flat head screwdriver. You may need to use pliers

Batteries were NOT included

 This is not difficult if you have worked with wire nuts before. It took me a while to identify which panel breaker controlled the AC power to the alarms, and I made sure that all alarms were on that same breaker. Too bad the builder's electrician did not write "smoke alarms" on the electrical panel label. Please don't work with wire nuts without first removing AC power!  The reason for the three star review has been described elsewhere in the reviews

 Several of the eight units I purchased had solder "tails" on the pins of the wiring harness connector, such that the harness would not plug into the smoke alarm connector. A photo is attached. I had to use a soldering iron with a pointed tip to touch up each pin. Use the iron to brush away the solder, continuously cleaning the iron tip on a wet sponge, until the pin is free of solder

 I did a complete replacement of my Kidde/Fyrnetics units, so I used the First Alert provided mounting rings and wiring harness. This required removing and replacing the three wire nuts in the junction box behind each smoke alarm. This is not difficult if you have worked with wire nuts before. It took me a while to identify which panel breaker controlled the AC power to the alarms, and I made sure that all alarms were on that same breaker

 Too bad the builder's electrician did not write "smoke alarms" on the electrical panel label. Please don't work with wire nuts without first removing AC power!  The reason for the three star review has been described elsewhere in the reviews. Several of the eight units I purchased had solder "tails" on the pins of the wiring harness connector, such that the harness would not plug into the smoke alarm connector. A photo is attached

Manufacturing Flaw Impairs Installation of an Otherwise Good Smoke Alarm

 In the meantime, roll the dice for my family's safety? No way - so we were out over $100 and purchased the new ones ourselves- hoping we just had a bad batch.  I understand if you don't have any, but don't recommend that I just *wait it out* and put my family at risk. Their job is safety! You would think a company like this would highly value safety! So disappointed. When it is time to replace them all, we will not be going with FirstAlert again

BEWARE - Some of my units died in 17 months!  Product support put family in danger!

False alarm sounds when power fluctuates

  One of these detectors arrived with a significant manufacturer's defect. See the attached photo for a clear illustration of the defect, which made this detector uninstallable. The electrical pins inside the device were improperly positioned. This defect also interfered with the opening/closing of the battery door on the new detector

 In fact, the wallcovering issue with the new, trimmer bases is more noticeable than the new detectors attached to the old mounts.

 The electrical pins inside the device were improperly positioned. This defect also interfered with the opening/closing of the battery door on the new detector. Amazon handled the exchange promptly and courteously.  Now, about the installation of the OK units: There's also good news and bad news

 This means I had to remove the old mounting base and replace it with the new one. It's an easy step, no problem. But because the new mounting base has a smaller diameter (a "trimmer" design), the new bases expose a ring of unpainted/unwalpapered wall/ceiling surface, which requires patching. First Alert has ALSO SLIGHTLY modified the turnscrew plastic locking design of the detector, so it no longer secures completely to the 10-year-old design

Excellent product (but marred by one manufacturer defect) - and some interesting installation advice

 3. attach new mounting bracket with old screws. 4. connect new alarm base to the old power connector

 Gently pry back the tab (practice and remember which way to pry) and (then) pull the connector free " (if you pry back the tab the right way, the connector should come loose but still attached and can be removed easily, so you don't need to hold the screwdriver blade in place. Pry back tab, remove screwdriver, and then remove alarm base from connector). Below are highlighted steps, one should follow manufacture instructions: 1. remove old alarm base from old power connector

Replaced BRK 9120B smoke alarm, the old 9120B Quick-Connect Power Connector fits the new 3120B, but the old Mounting Bracket doesn't fit the 3120B Smoke Alarm base and thus has to be replaced. The old 9120B alarm base has no issue to attach to the new 3120B Bracket, so one star reduced. It is actually easy to disconnect alarm base from power connector; one can practice first using the new base and new connector. Like the instruction said with my comments in (): "Insert a flat screwdriver blade between the power connector and the security tab inside the power input block

 It is actually easy to disconnect alarm base from power connector; one can practice first using the new base and new connector. Like the instruction said with my comments in (): "Insert a flat screwdriver blade between the power connector and the security tab inside the power input block. Gently pry back the tab (practice and remember which way to pry) and (then) pull the connector free " (if you pry back the tab the right way, the connector should come loose but still attached and can be removed easily, so you don't need to hold the screwdriver blade in place. Pry back tab, remove screwdriver, and then remove alarm base from connector)

Replaced BRK 9120B smoke detector.

Not nearly as well designed as the old 4120B detectors, but seem to work OK.

Purchased qty 6 of the BRK3120B photoelectric/Ionization, qty 2 BRK SC7010B Carbon Monoxide/Photoelectric, and Qty 1 BRK HD6135FB 135F fixed 15F rise heat detector. All of these are AC/DC battery back-up detectors that are wired off same AC circuit and all have their Orange wires all connected in Parallel as interconnected so any alarm event will sound every detectors alarm. All were tested for this interconnection and all worked as designed. They all replaced FireX G13 20 year old detectors and one older heat sensor

  Only drawback is the BRK HD6135FB requires the 9V (rectangular) battery and all the rest of the detectors use two AA 3V batteries. Not a big deal but it would be nice if all detectors used the same configuration.  I called BRK for a technical questions because the manual with the Heat Detector BRK HD6135FB did not indicate that it would work with their BRK 3120B sensors. I got through on first call and they were able to tell me they will work fine with the other two sensors I bought

 All were tested for this interconnection and all worked as designed. They all replaced FireX G13 20 year old detectors and one older heat sensor.  The good things about all the above new Detectors is the plug connector pigtails are all the same. However the existing FireX plug connector did not work with the new BRK, so each pigtail that came with the BRK's had to be rewired in the junction boxes

BRK 3120B Smoke Detector and interconnecting with other BRK types

 A call to First Alert helped - the CS guy asked if we'd tried a reset, yet. He admitted the procedure wasn't in all of the enclosed manuals.  Here's the Reset procedure: remove detector from bracket, disconnect from house power (we needed a flat screwdriver to release plug latch), remove batteries, close battery tray, press and hold test button for 15 seconds, reinstall batteries and close tray (it will chirp), reconnect to house power, reinstall detector in bracket on ceiling or wherever, press Test button to ensure everything's hooked up and functioning. That did fix our "low battery" chirp

  Here's the Reset procedure: remove detector from bracket, disconnect from house power (we needed a flat screwdriver to release plug latch), remove batteries, close battery tray, press and hold test button for 15 seconds, reinstall batteries and close tray (it will chirp), reconnect to house power, reinstall detector in bracket on ceiling or wherever, press Test button to ensure everything's hooked up and functioning. That did fix our "low battery" chirp.

This is a pretty good smoke detector. We ordered six of them to replace increasingly annoying, late-night-chirping, 10 year old units by another manufacturer. We wanted a dual sensor (photoelectric and ionization) detector with 10-year batteries but were unable to find any that fit the bill, and so settled for the 3120B - at least the batteries were AA instead of the more expensive 9 volt. We've had a little trouble with them - the reason for four stars instead of five

Good unit but needs better documentation

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