Elomi Brianna

AND IT WORKED!! I found three that fit AND gave me an actual rounded shape AND were comfortable: Elomi Matilda (40DD), Elomi Brianna (40DD), and Chantelle Rive Gauche (42D).

The cups usually fit me otherwise. The only bra I've tried on that fit pretty well was the Panache Ana Plunge, but I'm looking for something more lined that I can wear with t-shirts. I tried on the Panache Clara, Panache Porcelain Elan Plunge, Freya Offbeat Demi Plunge, Elomi Kim Plunge, Elomi Brianna Half Cup, and Elomi Matilda Plunge and they were too wide. They fit ok otherwise (some had a little long/high wire) except for the Freya one which gave me major gaping on top (it's a molded cup).

If the band is comfortable and the wires are following the line of your breast tissue, then I think you can keep looking within the Elomi brand for something with less material on the tops of the cups. Elomi Brianna is a half-cup style, which means there's very little material on top, and it would be well-suited to your shape. Elomi Kim and Elomi Charley also have lower cups, and might be worth a try.

I doubt seamless molded cups will work for you in any size, they hold their shape much too well and they also aren't as projected. I think the Sculptresse might be worth trying on in a 36HH, perhaps the Elomi Brianna half cup, if you're looking for a sports bra I found the Bravissimo Inspire to have particularly short and closed off cups, though projection may be an issue (Bravissimo only sells directly through their site but has a good shipping/returns policy). Hopefully someone else has better suggestions for shorter cups in this size range, I'm afraid a lot of what works for me isn't available in your size, and vice versa that I'm too small for Elomi.

cut in at top of the cup. Elomi Brianna (I believe?) the only lined bra I tried, good but also cut in a bit.