Name: Scarpa Instinct VS
Brand: Scarpa
SKU: 6367d1b8b5b4c642f4c6fa1f
Rating: 3.0 (76 reviews)

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Just a tad softer than the instinct, we tune up the slipper design with a single strap and vibram® xs edge rubber to resist deformation when standing on micro-flakes and edges. The instinct vs spans the performance arc from slabby boulder problems to overhanging gym routes. Sensitivity, with just enough power from the bi-tension randing for standing on dimes; these do it all. 

 Innovation and tradition share equally deep roots at SCARPA, a muti-generational, family-owned business whose headquarters and manufacturing facilities are in the same region of northern Italy where it was founded in 1938. SCARPA builds performance footwear for climbing, hiking, skiing, mountaineering, trail-running and other outdoor pursuits. Aside from being the Italian word for "shoe," SCARPA is an acronym for Societa Calzaturiera Asolana Riunita Pedemontana Anonima (Associated Shoe Manufacturing Company of the Asolo Mountain Area).

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 You can feel the smallest holds beneath your feet, and apply the power accordingly. And it's great for smearing moves. Although the rubber is soft, it is still durable, and the shoe has Scarpa's legendary build quality. Simply, it's been made to last

Scarpa Instinct VSR Climbing Shoe | Tech Spec Review

when they fit (like my old pair) are AMAZING shoes. Super comfortable shoes with tons of power ...

 Hey what's up guys, Merrick here. And this is the Scarpa Instinct VS. It's an Italian made shoe that's been around for quite a few years now and people seem to be loving it because it's really well designed, it's really comfortable, and it's just a great shoe all around. These are easily recognizable by their downturn and asymmetrical shape, as well as their black and orange design which I think looks really good

 The Instinct VS is built a little wider, so it's recommended to people with wider feet. By comparison, La Sportiva's solutions are built for more narrow feet. In the end, the only way to know how to size them is to try them on. If you don't have a store that carries them nearby, you could order a few pairs online and return the ones that don't fit, which is what I had to do

 As for the rubber, Scarpa uses Vibram soles, and for the Instinct VS, they specifically use a 3mm piece of Vibram's excess edge rubber. It's harder than Trax and C4 rubber, so it edges a little better, and because it's thinner, it's able to still be pretty sensitive. Now for sizing, Scarpa recommends downsizing half to two full sizes. My street shoes are size 9, my evolved shamans were size 9, but for my Instincts, I had to size them down to an 8 for them to feel snug

 The opening is kind of like a sock, similar to the solutions, so there aren't any flaps that you have to fiddle around with. I found this actually makes it a little harder to put the shoe on, as the opening is smaller, but once you do get your foot partially in, you can use the pull tabs to get your foot planted firmly inside the shoe. You then have a single velcro strap to make it extra snug, and what you end up with is surprisingly comfortable, and you can really feel the shoe hugging the entire surface of your foot. So here's a close-up of the opening, and you can see that there's no flap, but again, once you get your foot inside, it's really comfortable, because it's made out of a really soft, micro suede material

 Now for sizing, Scarpa recommends downsizing half to two full sizes. My street shoes are size 9, my evolved shamans were size 9, but for my Instincts, I had to size them down to an 8 for them to feel snug. The Instinct VS is built a little wider, so it's recommended to people with wider feet. By comparison, La Sportiva's solutions are built for more narrow feet

Review: Scarpa Instinct VS

Just like the other reviews.. let me agree with the rest. If you have narrow feet these prob won’t work for you like they didn’t for me

Too wide for narrow feet

 So if you want to skip something and be a heretic, then go for it. I also want to mention that I bought the shoe myself in the shop for the regular price. So there is no sponsoring from Scarpa involved here. You can expect a more or less objective opinion

 It's all synthetic. And if you fit it properly in the shop, it's gonna fit properly on your shoe also during the climbing. That's something that's really amazing as well. And yeah, the conclusion is that really what I expected from this shoe came true, namely that it is really good on the vertical terrain, not super overhanging and the super overhanging stuff where almost no weight reaches your toe tips

 So in terms of wideness, definitely a bit more on the wider side. I thought that's going to be a problem for me because I have more narrow feet and I fit quite well into something like the 5-10 team. But when I tried it actually on in the shop, it felt really nice, felt really comfortable, and I decided to just give it a try to see how it works out. And I'm happy that I did it because the shoe worked quite well for me, actually

 I had the feeling the shoe is a bit too hard for grabbing onto bigger, more 3D-like structures with your toes, right? Here's something like the 510 Team especially shines a lot more, or even the Scarpa Drago as well. But yeah, on the vertical stuff where more weight reaches your toe tips and you have to be really precise and technical, here this shoe is shining. And I'm guessing that also for bouldering, the same is true on the more overhanging, the more 3D bouldering with lots of toe hooks and heel hooks. Something like the Drago would be a better choice because we've got a bigger toe hook patch and nice soft heel for lots of feeling

Scarpa Instinct VS: In Depth Climbing Shoe Review

I used to only wear Vapors because they fit my feet perfectly but since Scarpa started making them with synthetic materials, they haven't fit me quite right.  I have flat feet, a wide toe base, and narrow ankles.  After recommendations from friends and reading reviews online, I decided to give these a try and I'm glad I did.  

  I will continue to keep my eye out for a better fitting shoe but as of right now these do the job and I imagine is probably one of the best fits I can get at the moment.

  My heel fits in the shoe perfect but is loose at the ankle which is why I'm giving it a 4/5.  I took these out bouldering and had to be delicate and quick with heel hooks to keep my heel from slipping out.  I will continue to keep my eye out for a better fitting shoe but as of right now these do the job and I imagine is probably one of the best fits I can get at the moment.

Upgraded from Vapors

 If I was going to give three pros of the shoe, I would say they're the best shoes I've ever had as far as edging is concerned, and not just edging but precision. The toe is very precise and Scarpa did a really good job with the midsole in it, the midsole support, so I think it goes all the way between like here and here, and it's just a plastic insert that goes underneath the rubber of the shoe, and it provides more rigidity for when doing edging. And comparing them in hindsight to my Madrock Drones, which are currently my most used climbing shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS is a little bit more accurate. The toe box, the tip of the toe isn't as rounded, it's a little bit more pointed, which is better for little pockets and little tiny tiny edges, which is where the shoe excels

 If we get into some of the features I liked about this shoe, they're very good at edging, they are wider in the toe blocks, and they keep their shape very well over the lifetime of the shoe, as well as just being a durable shoe, which leads the shoe to be really good at outdoor climbing, outdoor bouldering, and sport climbing. We can start off by getting some specifications out of the way. The Scarpa Instinct VS comes in at $180, uses Vibram's Excess Edge 2 rubber, is asymmetrical, which is this kind of shape right here where the shoe comes up and curves over, and then aggressive shoe. It's also split lasted, which allows for more flexibility for when you're doing really hard toe hooks, I mean heel hooks, you can kind of, you can kind of keep more tension or pull harder with that

 That honestly was my biggest complaint, which sent me on my search to find a shoe that fit my heel. Also, I wanted to try softer shoes, because I heard softer shoes were a little bit better in volume. Me being a gym climber, that was my biggest problem indoors. That was a quick little review, that was a quick little review of the Scarpa Instinct VS's

Scarpa Instinct VS-My First Aggressive Shoe

I had bought different brands of shoes before and always used to buy them the same size as my street shoes. I ordered my street shoe size this time again (9 1/2) and also used the size charts as a reference. When received and fitted shoe was extremely tight, had to return and order 1 full size bigger (10 1/2), this time they fit perfect except for the thumb toe which still feels tight but I am sure once shoes are broken by the use this issue will go away.  Giving 4 stars because I haven't used them at the gym yet but initial fit feels great (1 size bigger than my street shoe) and shoes look and feel excellent quality

 When received and fitted shoe was extremely tight, had to return and order 1 full size bigger (10 1/2), this time they fit perfect except for the thumb toe which still feels tight but I am sure once shoes are broken by the use this issue will go away.  Giving 4 stars because I haven't used them at the gym yet but initial fit feels great (1 size bigger than my street shoe) and shoes look and feel excellent quality.

Go at least 1 size bigger than your street shoe.

however after trying these shoes Its safe to say that scrap is one of the best brands out there right up there with sportive

 I thought the were really comfortable for me, especially the way my toes fit, just wish they lasted longer.

 And with the use of these shoes two to three times a week after about two months the rubber started separating from the rest of the material. After about half a year I could no longer use them. I thought the were really comfortable for me, especially the way my toes fit, just wish they lasted longer.

Overall the shoe was great for climbing and bouldering; however it broke down within a few months. I am not an advanced climber but not a beginner, somewhere in the middle. And with the use of these shoes two to three times a week after about two months the rubber started separating from the rest of the material. After about half a year I could no longer use them

Comfortable shoe for indoor bouldering and rock climbing

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