Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 vs Sigma 150-600mm

The 16-35mm F4 is a great lens, well worth the money. But its overkill on a 70D. I have one and I never put it on my 80D.

This will be the hardest test for image quality in the middle of the lenses projected image. Firstly, add 150 millimeter and f5. The lenses pretty sha...

The game changer is the IS. In low light with the slightest shake using the 10-22 and the picture is out of focus. With the 10-18, there is a higher chance of images coming in focus with minor shaking or motion. Upon further inspection, the 10-18 produces sharper images, but I didnnotice some grain/noise overall when zoomed in

All right is this good. Can you turn to the left a little? I need this reflection. Yeah yeah, I'm getting the bounce back right here, that's good! It'...

You can easily fix vignetting, and a lot of the times, you crop out barrel distortion, so that isn't a big deal to me. P.S, I am not going to try and act like I am some sort of nuts and bolts photography expert, but I do know a little about photography. If you care to, check out some of my work below to decide how much weight to give my review

The Sport is supposedly more ruggedly built and better sealed - but that doesn't matter if the lens is too heavy for me to want to carry in the first place. And You can literally buy two Contemporary lenses for the price of one Sport.

. I mentioned the ease of auto focus and that my preference is manual normally, but if one uses the manual focus it is super fast and easy because the auto focus ring is awesome! I wish I found this Lens sooner! I mostly shoot wildlife and landscapes and I am a total amateur, but I really enjoy photography, and this lens REALLY creates an incredibly shallow bokeh. This can be a great feature when shooting portraits

9-10m or 10m-infinity. Autofocus can go full auto, full manual, or auto with manual override. Many of my initial blown pics were because I had something set in the wrong place. One potentially awesome thing that I have not had time to try yet is that you can buy a $60 docking station that will let you burn custom settings and microfocus adjustments in to the lens as well as update its firmware

The Canon 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens is awesome but the one thing I don't like about it is that the aperture does not allow a lot of light to come in and is hard to get bokeh. However, 10mm is amazing as I used to shoot with a kit lens, 18-55mm f/3

With the Nikon D3200 and Sigma 150-600mm, I often used the 600mm end. It's my personal sweet spot and I still have to sneak up on the birds. The problem with the 600mm end is with a maximum aperture of f/6.3, the autofocus system was not always reliable even with proper settings and back button focus

But in practice I found this lens just too slow (in terms of aperture) for general vlogging purposes. Unless you want your face very deformed, you end up using it in the 14mm and above range, where the aperture drops to f/5.6. Meaning all indoor footage turns out either extremely grainy or under exposed

The 2.8 aperture is great, but I shoot in forests frequently and 2.8 isn't really going to be a huge game changer in those conditions especially with the M50.

Good size, low weight. Makes you feel like your Rebel series has "real" lens, not so much of the toy feel that other EF-S kit lens can have.

The reason I upgraded was because I loved the 400mm reach and got addicted to it, and figured 600 was better than 400, right?? I will say that this is quite a bit bigger and heavier than the 100-400mm version (twice the weight). Your forearm WILL get tired of you handhold this for too long, but it’s bearable. The autofocus on this is a little slower than the 100-400mm, and it seems to hunt more - but it’s possible it’s because the extra reach compresses the scene more (that’s just a guess, I don’t know if that’s actually how it works). Costwise it’s not much more than the 100-400, so I would base your decision on whether you’re okay with the extra size and weight